Before you can begin to successfully train your puppy or adult dog, you need to keep a few things firmly in mind:
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A dog is a pack animal: her ancestors ran with a pack and followed an "Alpha" leader of the pack. So she's genetically programmed to be both a social creature and follow a dominant "Alpha" leader.
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It’s your duty, as Master, to insert yourself into that "Alpha" leader-position immediately. If you don't, your dog will make himself the "Alpha" leader to fill the huge void in his life. The result is a dog who will not obey and a master who is not very happy.
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A dog’s ancestors lived in a den. A den which they kept free of waste and relatively clean. To make your canine more comfortable, you really should get her a wire crate to act as her den. Why a wire crate? It will enable her to see everything around her.
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While you're at work or away, it's a good idea to keep him confined to a small area or his crate. Make sure that he has something to chew on , as this will keep him occupied. You might also want to leave the radio on, as dogs are social animals and crave company.
You should teach your dog as early as possible to get used to wearing a collar and leash . Follow him around at first without a leash and then call him and get him to follow you. Add a collar and leash and do the same thing. Do not let him get away with chewing on his leash and treating it like a toy.
Try and do all your training with a collar and leash . Why? So you're always in control. Whenever possible during your everyday activities, take your dog along with you on his leash... while watering the flowers, cleaning the house, doing the laundry, etc. This will serve to develop a strong bond between you and your dog. Your aim is to constantly reinforce your position as the "Alpha" leader.
Always remember that dogs are extremely perceptive of body language. They know when you are :
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afraid
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mad
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happy
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sad
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indifferent
You should definitely use this to your advantage in the training process. This, along with your tone of voice when speaking to your dog, and pulling on his collar with the leash are all you really need to get your point across. Striking your dog is never necessary.
Dogs progress at different speeds when it comes to training and housebreaking depending on various factors. Among these are:
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Type of breed.
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Where he came from - breeder, pet shop, shelter, etc.
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What type of owner he came from - if older than 12 weeks.
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Be patient, patient, patient. Your patience will pay off in spades.
Should you use food as a reward in your training? Your dog would answer yes, but his mommy would know better... A mother dog doesn't use food as a reward. She uses her voice and touch for reward and punishment. Food breaks your dog's concentration on the task at hand. It's much better for you to use your tone of voice, facial expressions, and touch to reinforce and train. And don't forget the absolute must have - a collar and leash .
Here are a few examples of good dog behavior:
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Answers to his name
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Obeys a command
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Potties in the proper area
Some examples of bad behavior:
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Nips
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Bites
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Doesn't respond to his name
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Doesn't obey your command
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Chews on furniture or off-limits property
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Potties in the wrong area
Here are the essential words that you will need to teach your dog:
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Sit
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Stay
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No
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Heel
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Up
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Out
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OK
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Good Dog
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Bad dog
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Come
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Down
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Go
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Stop
You should begin training with the "Sit" command.
To start the training: say "Sit" while gently pressing her rump down and holding a toy above her head. Go over this with her several times a day for 5 or more minutes. Soon you won't have to use the toy or press her rump down. Practice, practice, practice. And do be patient, some dogs progress faster than others.
Use the "Stay" command to get your dog to Stay in place while sitting. When he doesn't Stay, say "NO" and try again. Don't get over-excited when he either does or doesn't obey. Always keep on an even keel. Practice this command at each "Sit" command training session.
You should use the "OK" command to break the "Stay" command. Never let her break the "Stay" command without your permission. If she breaks without your "OK" command, then start all over again. She has to learn that there are consequences to her actions.
"Down" is another important command.
Say "Down" and get him to lie down and Stay in place until he hears the "OK" command. When just beginning, you may need to pull his front legs out from under him. This is a good command to use when you want your dog to stay in place for extended periods of time. You may want him to Stay in place for an hour or more. The down position is much more comfortable than the sitting position. Remember, no break allowed until you give the "OK" command.
Give her praise when she obeys and be stern and practice longer when she disobeys.
"Heel" is a command to teach after he has a pretty good grasp of "Sit" and "Stay." The beginning position is him sitting next to you on a collar and leash . Begin walking and when he lags behind or moves ahead say "Heel" and pull on his leash until he is beside you again. Remember to practice, practice, practice. It will definitely pay off.
"Enough" is a command to use when acceptable behavior has run its course. It is different from "No", because it is acceptable behavior.
"Off" is a natural command to use. In the beginning, you may need to use the "Off" command and physically move her away at the same time.
Teach your dog to only eat when you give her permission. That way, she won't snap at other dogs or people when they come around while she's eating. Another benefit is this... She won't eat anything and everything she comes across. She'll be trained to look for your "OK" first.
Put her food bowl down and say "OK". The next time wait a little bit longer before saying "OK." If she starts to eat without your "OK", then say "No" and take her bowl away. Put it down again and wait before saying "OK." Do this on a regular schedule until she gets the idea to wait for the "OK" before eating anything.
Do not ever allow your dog to nip or bite. Say "No" sternly and put him in a timeout in his crate if necessary. It does no good to hold his mouth closed, he will take it as a game and a challenge.
Other tips:
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Whenever your dog misbehaves, you can put him in his crate for a time-out.
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It's perfectly normal for a dog to need to bark every once in a while. As a social animal he needs to be able to express himself. But it should not be excessive.
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Practice your "Enough" command whenever it gets out of hand.
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It is normal for a dog to sometimes eat his feces. This is his attempt to keep his area clean. It is your responsibility to help him keep his area clean.
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Some small breeds are really nervous and submissive and may urinate when excited. Take this into consideration and reduce loud noises and over-excitement on your part.
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Try to get down on their level physically and verbally.
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Be patient with your dog and don't expect him to obey overnight.
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Remember that you have to always show that you are the "Alpha" dog. Think of your dog like a child. He is constantly trying to test his boundaries. He expects leadership from you. If he doesn't get it, then he will put himself in the place of leadership.
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Don't just do these exercises occasionally, practice them often and have special blocks of time set aside for training sessions.
Crate Training
The basic idea of crate training is to use a dog's natural instinct to your advantage. Her natural instinct is to keep her den (crate) clean.
Keep your puppy in his crate and only let him out to:
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Use the potty
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Eat
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Drink
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Play
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Walk
Tough love is sometimes necessary. Remember, you are the leader and your tough love will pay off in the long run. You can also use a crate to train an adult dog.
Her crate should be made of wire. Why? So that she will be able to see all around her. Try not to buy one any larger than is necessary, as she will use one end for her potty . You only want her to have enough room to turn around and lie down. If you do buy a larger one, use a board or box to take up any extra space at the end.
What you feed your dog will affect:
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How solid his stools are
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How often he needs to potty
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How much control he will have over his urge
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Try and stick to quality, dry food. It makes his digestive system and stools consistent.
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Quality, dry food is also good exercise for his jaws and helps to keep his teeth clean.
Eating table scraps can really mess up your dog's stools (as well as giving him health problems) and therefore wreak havoc on your housebreaking plans. Decent quality, dry dog food is you and your dog's biggest ally... table scraps are not.
You will need to maintain a strict schedule concerning:
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What you feed your dog
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When you feed her
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When you give her water
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When you take her out for a walk
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When a puppy, she will require 3 or 4 feedings and waterings a day.
When 6 months and older begin to cut her feedings down to a couple of times a day, but continue to give her water 3 or 4 times a day. The last watering should be no later than a couple of hours before bedtime. Also, in very hot weather, more frequent waterings may be required.
Try to feed your dog in a nice, quiet spot and don't interrupt her during her feeding and watering time. The feeding and watering time shouldn't last over 15 minutes. She'll soon learn not to dawdle over her food.
The last feeding should be as early as possible (around 5 or 6) so that she will eliminate on the last walk and will not have to go overnight.
Do not leave food and water in the crate with her. And feed and water her on a strict schedule so that you will be in control.
Remember, 8 hrs is about the limit of a puppy's endurance as far as elimination is concerned. If you're gonna be at work for 8 hours, then you need to get home and let him out of his crate for a walk... or arrange for someone else to do it.
Up until 3 months old, a dog needs about 5 walks a day.
From 4 - 6 months old, he needs about 4 walks a day.
6 months old, he needs about 3 walks a day.
At close to a year and older he only needs 2 walks a day.
In the beginning there are gonna be some messes, be prepared. It takes a little while to figure out your dog's digestive rhythms. Patience is very important. Remember that if you stick with it, your dog will sooner or later be housebroken.
It's absolutely imperative that you clean up any mess in her crate ASAP so that she won't get used to being dirty. Use ammonia free cleanser when cleaning up a mess, as a dog's urine contains ammonia. He'll recognize the ammonia and want to go in the same place. Use vinegar as a neutralizer after you clean up. Just put some in a spray bottle for convenience. You can dilute it partially with water.
When you take your dog outside to potty, stay with her. Take her exactly where you want her to go with her leash . She should go within about 20 minutes, if not bring her in and keep and eye on her. Take her out when she looks like she needs to go.
Praise your dog when he potties on the Housebreaking Pads or area. Do not go overboard in your praise though. In the wild, his mother would not. Whenever he has the inevitable accidents, give him a stern look and say "Bad Dog." Immediately take him to your preferred potty area. Don't ever shove his nose in the mess or hit him. This does no good at all. His mother wouldn't do it. She would correct him with her voice, or shove him with her muzzle or body.
After a walk and business done, she can get 15-20 minutes of play time and then back to her crate . You're probably thinking that this is cruel and unusual punishment... This is not cruel. Here's why... Dogs are den animals and remember that she is gradually earning more and more freedom. You can gradually increase her time outside the crate. But always supervise this free time. You want to catch any accidents when they happen. If you find an accident after the fact, take her over to the scene of the crime and let her smell it. Do not shove her nose in it. Sternly tell her "Bad Girl" and then take her to the proper potty area.
Other tips:
Make sure that all other sources of water are eliminated during training so that you will have control over when and therefore where he urinates. Possible sources where he might sneak a drink of water: toilets, flowerpots, puddles, etc.
A dog's sense of smell is thousands of times keener than ours, so believing that an odor is gone by using your own sense of smell is useless. Always use ammonia free cleanser .
Your dog always needs to be observed any time that he is out of his crate .
Even an adult dog can be crate trained. Confine him to his crate as you would a puppy with scheduled walks, feedings and waterings, and play times. Gradually allow more free time as he earns it.
Paper training
Be consistent in your training. When you use one method stick to it. Consistency will be rewarded. Try to maintain a strict schedule regarding:
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What you feed your dog
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When you feed her
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When you give her water
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When you take her out for a walk
Stick to quality, dry food. It makes his digestion and stool's consistent. A good quality, dry food also exercises his jaws and helps to keep his teeth clean. What you feed your dog will affect:
•
How solid her stools are
•
How often she potties
•
How much control she will have over his urge
Eating table scraps can really mess up your dog's stools (as well as giving him health problems) and therefore wreak havoc on your housebreaking plans. Decent quality, dry dog food is you and your dog's biggest ally... table scraps are not.
When a puppy, your dog will require 3 or 4 feedings and waterings a day. When 6 months and older begin to cut his feedings down to a couple of times a day, but continue to give him water 3 or 4 times a day. The last watering should be no later than a couple of hours before bedtime.
The feeding and drinking time shouldn't last over 15 minutes. She'll soon learn not to dawdle over her food bowl .
Try to feed your dog in a nice, quiet spot and don't interrupt him during his 15 minute feeding and watering time. The last feeding should be as early as possible (around 5 or 6) so that he will eliminate on the last walk and will not have to go overnight.
When you bring your dog home, section off a small area for her living space. Start out covering her entire confined area with absorbent paper .
Your mission is to gradually make her paper area smaller and smaller until you are left with a very small potty area. And then you will probably want to move her potty area exclusively to the great outdoors.
Keep her potty papers in one location. Do not put them throughout the house. She should have her one, defined, potty area in her sight at all times.
Try to change any dirty paper ASAP. You want her to be clean at all times, which will make her prefer it to being dirty.
Clean thoroughly the areas where she uses the potty with ammonia free cleanser . A simple solution of vinegar diluted with water is a good neutralizer. You can put some in a spray bottle for convenience. She will continue to use the potty where she smells even faint traces of her own waste. And a dog's urine contains ammonia. You can also use this to your advantage... Put some of her soiled papers exactly where you want her to go.
When you take your dog outside to potty, stay with him. Take him exactly where you want him to go using his collar and leash . You can also take his soiled paper with you and put it in the area where you would like for him to go. Give him around 15 minutes to do his business. If he doesn't go, then bring him back in. If he shows signs of having to go, then take him back outside.
Praise your dog when he potties on the designated papers or area. Don't go overboard in your praise though. In the wild, his mother would not. Whenever you catch your dog going in the wrong place - grab him and take him to his papers or designated area immediately, while saying "Bad Dog."
After a walk and business done, then he can get 15 - 20 minutes of play time and then back to his living area.
If you discover an accident after the fact, take your dog over to the area and let her get a good whiff. Say "Bad Dog" and then take her to the designated potty area.
Don't ever shove his nose in the mess or hit him. This does no good at all. His mother wouldn't do it. She would correct him with her voice, or shove him with her muzzle or body.
Make sure that all other sources of water are eliminated during training so that you will have control over when and therefore where she urinates. Possible sources where she might sneak a drink of water: toilets, flowerpots, puddles, etc.
Patience is very important. Remember that if you stick with it, your dog will sooner or later be housebroken.
Points to remember:
Tough love is sometimes necessary. Remember, you are the leader and your tough love will pay off in the long run.
A dog's sense of smell is thousands of times keener than our's, so believing that an odor is gone by using your own sense of smell is useless. Always use an ammonia free cleanser .
His small living space should be near the action of the house so he doesn't get too lonely.
Your puppy won't have very good control of his stools and urine until after 3 months of age, so he will need more frequent walks.
Keeping your puppy confined to his personal area or him being where you can keep a constant eye on him are essential to house-breaking. It does more good to catch him in the act of an accident and stopping him than correcting him after the fact.
While you're away, leave him in his personal confined space with his potty papers . Make sure that he has something to chew on , as this will keep him occupied. You might also want to leave the radio or television on, as dogs are social animals and crave company.
Observe closely your dog's habits. See how long after eating he relieves himself. Get a good average. This will help you in planning a schedule for his walks.
When the paper training is over, clean the area thoroughly with ammonia free cleanser so that he doesn't continue to use that area.
You can take some of his soiled paper outside while training to get him to go in a specific area.
Take your dog out first thing in the morning. He should go within about 20 minutes, if not bring him in and watch him. Take him out when he displays the urge to go.